Jilong County (Kyirong)

Much like Zhangmu and Chuya, Jilong is another rare warm-climate district in Tibet. Located in the Xigaze Prefecture in southwest China's Tibet Autonomous Region, Jilong has a long and rich history with the surrounding Tibetan and Nepalese areas. Isolated in a valley below soaring mountains, a hidden gorge of unsurpassed beauty springs to life. Vegetation is plentiful and with the weather staying pleasant all year long, it flourishes here. The mild temperatures are seldom seen in the Qinghai-Tibetan plateau. Jilong has rightfully earned the nickname the “Valley of Happiness” and there is plenty of the good stuff to go around.

Up until the mid 20th century, one of the main trade routes between Nepal and Tibet passed through the region. Political difficulties have all but halted trade between the two countries, but wealthier estates still present remind visitors that there was once a thriving trade post here. Being quite accessible from Nepal, it was used on several occasions by Nepalese military forces as an entrance gate to take arms against Tibet.

Jilong's capital is Zongga, or its Tibetan name Dzongka, which stands for "mud walls". But many visitors traveling through this area forego staying in the city and prefer to camp out in the town’s surrounding grassy meadows. Here, you can see the real Tibet up close and personal. While making your way through the region, look up for narrow, precariously perched shepherds’ homes that have been around for generations and generations. Coming to the Jilong valley will allow you to see things that hardly any outsider has seen for decades. It is remote, it is peaceful and it is breathtakingly beautiful.

One of the most famous sites in the area is the Byams-sprin lha-khang built by the famous Tibetan king Songtsän Gampo. Erected in the 7th century, this temple and place of worship has a long and rich history. In the 11th century, the famous scholar Atisha visited the site and it was a favorite meditation getaway for Milarepa, a famous Tibetan Yogin. Not far from here is Tsarang, the birthplace Milarepa, the region’s famed saint and poet. You could spend an entire week visiting some of his pilgrimage sites, included the breathtaking views from Drakar Taso, or "Eagle’s Nest" hermitage.

Surrounding the area are Mt. Yangrankangri and Mt. Langbokangri, both of which are well worth visiting. From the valley, day hiking trips to the forested base of the Ganesh and Riwo Palbar can be made. Famous temples in the area such as the Paba Temple and the Chagadasuo Temple, which was built as early as the 8th century, are also worth taking the time to see.

Being so remote has earned Jilong the nicknames of "the last secret place in Tibet" and "the backyard garden of Mt. Everest". Its isolated location has ensured that several ancient temples and structures remained untouched throughout the years. It might even seem as if the way of life has remained pure and ancient as well. The region sees little visitors, at least compared to other Tibetan tourist hot spots. The area is about 700 kilometers (440 miles) from Lhasa or can be reached from Nepal by way of Katmandu. But it is so worth the hassle to get out to the valley. Heinrich Harrer, the famed author of “Seven Years in Tibet” wrote: I shall never cease thinking of this place with yearning, and if I can choose where to pass the evening of my life, it will be in Kyirong.